Control Common Garden Diseases with Serenade

December 27, 2010 by Mario  
Filed under Organic Gardening


www.yardlover.com Now you can effectively treat common garden diseases without worrying about the safety of your family and pets Serenade Garden Disease Control offers you the same effective control used by 1000s of farmers to grow beautiful, disease-free fruits, vegetables and flowers – without chemicals that can be harmful to people or the environment. Serenade Garden: * Protects against a broad spectrum of fungal and bacterial garden diseases * Is completely non-toxic to bees and beneficial insects. * Can be used on the day of harvest * Is non-irritating to skin and lungs. * Can be used in any weather conditions * 20 oz concentrate makes up to 20 gallons of spray Serenade Garden is certified for use in organic gardening through the National Organic Program (NOP) of the Environmental Protection Agency and the US Department of Agriculture. It also carries the approval of OMRI, the Organic Materials Review Institute.

Identifying Tomato Plant Diseases

August 18, 2010 by Mario  
Filed under Organic Gardening


Susie Anderson, of Johnny’s Selected Seeds, shows Dave how to identify some common tomato plant diseases.

Common Garden Flower Diseases

March 19, 2010 by Mario  
Filed under 20

Gardening can be a fun and relaxing hobby but it is not without it’s downsides. That downside comes in the form of pests and diseases that can ruin your plants if you are not careful.

No garden is immune from disease and your best way to deal with it is to educate yourself as to the common pests and diseases in your area. Bacteria, fungi and viruses can attack both flowering and non flowering plants. Fungi are able to survive in the soil, independent of the plants, while both bacteria and viruses require a plant host for their survival.

Fungi are primitive organisms that reproduce through spores which are very hard to kill. Fungi make spores in huge quantities and they spread rapidly. Some spores can affect a plant through the roots and others through the leaves. Fungi can lie dormant for years in the soil just waiting for the right conditions to activate it. A single infected plant can release up to 100 million spores, so it is important to completely eradicate any fungal infection.

Bacteria, on the other hand, need both warmth and water to multiply and grow. Therefore, the majority of bacterial diseases are more of a problem in climates that are both warm and wet. Bacteria can be spread thorough splashing water such as rain or overhead watering. Many times it enters plants through a natural opening like a flower, or through a wound or cut in a stem or leaf.

Viruses can only reproduce from within the cells of the plant. They are smaller even than bacteria and can be transmitted by insects or carried by infected seeds or pollen. Like bacteria, viruses often enter plants through cuts or wounds in the stems, leaves or other parts of the plant.

As with all other disease treatment, the first step to effectively treating a viral, bacterial or fungal infection in the garden is to diagnose it properly. Every gardener should keep a book or guide on hand which shows the effects of common plant diseases. This guide will prove invaluable when trying to figure out what is bothering your plants. If you are still stumped for a diagnosis, be sure to seek the assistance of the staff at your local garden center, or the help of a more experienced gardener.

If you need to treat your garden for any of these problems, you should first try natural non invasive methods. Try to avoid harsh chemicals and fungicides or same them for a last resort. While you may have to turn to using them, remember that they are not good for the environment so keep to using only the minimum amounts recommended.

Lee Dobbins writes for Backyard Garden and Patio where you can find more articles on gardening, garden ponds, garden decor and much more.

Hydroponic Gardening – Managing Pests & Diseases

March 19, 2010 by Mario  
Filed under 20

As with soil-based gardens, hydroponic plants require good pest and disease maintenance controls. Failure to do so creates the same results as with ‘ordinary’ gardens i.e. spindly or dead plants. Since the majority of hydroponic plants are fruits and vegetables, that means the plants are not worth eating.


However, managing the hydroponic garden is even trickier, since disease and pests have it much easier in this setting. Plants are continuously kept wet, either immersed in water (‘true’ hydroponics) or continually sprayed (aeroponics) or reside in a permanently wet medium such as perlite or sand. Fortunately, as with soil-based gardens, there is an large array of available methods to manage the problem.


Using beneficial life forms is one popular way to control unwanted pests, including certain types of bacteria and fungi. These can help to control spider mites and other invaders by crowding them out, eating them or releasing compounds toxic to the pest. They’re known as beneficial organisms because they do all that without damaging the plants themselves.


Different types of pesticides are available, too.


Pesticidal soaps have been in use for centuries and still provide effective and non-toxic ways to keep the pests down. One category called botanicals are compounds released by plants themselves that have been combined into an easy-to-use pest control method. Botanicals break down naturally from exposure to air and water and are brilliant because they leave no harmful chemicals behind.


Neem oil can control over 400 different types of pest that commonly invade gardens, including hydroponic ones. A simple spray to the leaves can often eliminate common pests. The bugs absorb the oil, which limits their ability to reproduce, leading to a lower population.


For more serious infestations, many commercial pesticides continue to work well.


White flies, aphids, mites and other pests can be a problem in hydroponic settings, just as in soil-based gardens. Powdery mildew is common. In fact, because of the continual moisture bugs and pests have a ‘friendly’ environment. Making it ‘unfriendly’ is straightforward enough, using fungicides and organicides. Sulfur-based compounds can help control white flies, mealy bugs, thrips and more.


Pyrethrum continues to be a safe and effective means of control. Though it sounds man made it is actually derived from flowers. This class of natural compounds released by plants are extracted and used in many commercial insecticides. Dosage is low, so the compound is very safe when used correctly (always read the label). Azatrol is a broad spectrum insecticide that provides another easy control method over most common pests.


Hydroponic gardeners have to exercise additional care when using any disease or pest control method, though. Since no soil is present to hold on to the roots, it’s easier to damage a plant when manipulating the leaves and stems. That means that if you pick off mites by hand – an effective method for low-number infestations – it’s important to exercise extra care.


Since moisture is present, mildew and other fungi are more common in hydroponic gardens. Keeping leaves dry and just the roots wet will help. Any insecticide sprayed on to your plants or vegetable should be allowed to dry under the grow lights. For aeroponically grown plants, for example, that may require a temporary relocation of the indoor garden.

Discover The Top 10 Tips For Keeping Pests And diseases Away From Your Organic vegetable Plants

March 12, 2010 by Mario  
Filed under 20

Everytime a new chemical is produced for commercial use a diluted version appears in the local garden
Centre which claims to do great things for pest elimination.  The truth is that by cultivating your own natural
Organic garden you won’t face the same Problems as those who choose to use artificial products and you
Will have much healthier organic vegetable plants. 

Below you’ll find the top ten actions you can take to maintain a healthy organic garden all year round
And keep pests and diseases off your organic vegetable plants. 

1.  Good cultivating practices

Always keep a powerful organic approach when cultivating your organic vegetable plants.  Don’t forget to feed the soil
Not the plant. 

two.  Keep your garden neat

Never leave rubbish scattered around put weeds on the compost heap straightaway.  This is extra important with thinned
Sprouts, because insect pests are attracted by the smell of bruised stems. 

3.  Keep your compost heap healthy

remember to only put healthy plant waste on your heap.  If any hint of disease, burn it{!}  Always burn prunings from
Fruit tree’s as they are probably going to become infected with mildew.  The ashes from these plants may be used as a manure
For your organic vegetable plants. 

4.  Sterilize your pots and seed trays

remember to keep pots and seed trays awfully clean and if possible sterilize with boiling water.  If you’re growing
Your organic vegetable plants in a greenhouse keep this extra clean and always pick off a pest or any
Fungus you find on a leaf immediately. 

5.  Keep you daily wariness

To keep your organic vegetable plants upto scratch you will need to be double vigilant especially in the summertime
Months.  Get into the practice of walking around the garden at least once a day.  Remove errant weeds and keep an eye
Open for the first signs of attack from pests and diseases. 

six.  Always buy healthy plants

In most nations the govt.   cover some plants with a certificate of health to show they’re free from illness. 
It is really easy to buy plants that have viruses or diseases. 

seven.  Don’t just buy healthy plants, raise healthy plants too{!} 

Safeguard plants you have raised yourself.  It can be difficult to remove the weaklings when you have grown them yourself. 
Remember a young plant infected with an illness is a drawback to all of your organic vegetable plants from the start. 

8.  Reduce Aphids

Hover flies are the most valuable pest predator in the garden.  The female will lay her eggs on the colonies
Of aphids so that larvae have a widely available source of food.  To draw in hover flies plant marigolds
( Tagetes and calendula ), poppies ( papaversp ) or nasturtiums ( Trapaeolum ). 

9.  Inspire other predators

It is tougher to attract more predators because they don’t always feed on flowers.  Wasps, ladybirds and
Lacewings can be encouraged by planting carrots between rows of onions so the smell of the carrots is disguised. 

ten.  Control birds and animals

The single most deleterious pests in the garden are the bigger ones like birds, deer, rabbits, moles and mice. 
The most effective control is to stop them reaching your crops.  Physically cover seeds with netting and protect
Crops by placing stakes in the ground with netting placed ott.  Do not forget to put jam jars over the top
Of the stakes to defend the netting.

Frangipani (plumeria) Pests and Diseases

March 10, 2010 by Mario  
Filed under 20

Although frangipanis are fairly hardy, there are some pests and diseases which can affect them, predominantly fungus, scale, frangipani rust and stem rot.

Fungus, Mold & Powdery Mildew

Leaves affected by fungus or mold can be sprayed with a copper based fungicide and white oil solution. If you prefer organic solutions, try a mixture of powdered milk powder and white oil or detergent.

Keeping plants well nourished helps prevent fungal infections. Potash is particularly good for improving disease resistance in frangipanis.

Hemispherical Scale

Leaves affected by hemispherical scale have dark to light brown bumps that are glossy, smooth and hemispherical. Leaves may have a black sooty coating.

Scale can be treated by spraying with white oil in spring to early summer. If you prefer organic solutions, try encouraging natural predators to your garden, such as ladybugs, the scale eating caterpillar, and parasitic wasps. Many plants attract ladybugs including daisies, zinnias, and zucchini.

Frangipani Rust

There is a new disease attacking frangipanis in Australia called frangipani rust. It is most noticeable in late summer and early autumn. An orange to yellow powdery substance (actually pustules) appears on the underside of leaves. They rupture and spread spores which pass the disease to other plants nearby. The upper sides of the leaves are brown and discoloured. Severe infections may cause the leaves to drop prematurely and can lead to the death of small plants, however larger trees appear to suffer no ill effects (apart from leaf drop).

To control frangipani rust try using a fungicide (such as Mancozeb) in the warmer months to slow the development of the disease. Disposing of all fallen leaves in winter and spraying the tree and the area under the tree with a fungicide may slow the reappearance of frangipani rust next season.

The good news is that recently some frangipani trees have built up a resistance to rust, so it may be on it’s way out.

Stem Rot & Black Tip Dieback

As frangipanis lose their leaves over winter, soft, withered stems may become visible. It’s a condition called ‘stem rot’ and it’s quite common in trees that have been stressed by frosts, drought, lack of sunlight or just plain old age.

The best way to keep it under control is to simply prune off any diseased growth, but when you do, it’s important to make sure you cut it right back to good, healthy tissue.

Dying tip growth is commonly referred to as black tip dieback. Some newer deciduous cultivars and evergreen frangipanis are particularly prone to the disease.

Commercial frangipani growers suggest the problem is worse in areas where fruit-spotting bug and beetle activity is high. This is because any insect attack on the tip of the plant predisposes it to a secondary dieback infection.

Affected plants typically reshoot beneath the damaged portion of stem. If plants appear unsightly or you are concerned that the rot is advancing down the stem, use sharp pruners to cut back to clean tissue. Be sure to use hot water or household disinfectant to clean pruners between cuts so as to minimise potential disease transfer.

Badly affected plants may benefit from an application of fungicide to limit the disease’s spread.